spices and delights of louisiana - michel, what are you going to preparefor this menu inspired by the cuisine in louisiana? - today, we will have a crab and crayfishes soup with green pepper. the main course is a pork jambalayaand the dessert a pecan pie. - wonderful! so it is more a familial and popular cooking.what inspired you for this menu? - everything you said is what i love and ifound inspiration in books about the cajun cuisine. they have products that i am not used to cook with, like the okras,which are vegetables used in almost every cajun recipes. dishes from louisiana, so far away and yet so close… inspired by the french roots of this cuisine,
but also by the spices, the combinations of african and creole flavors, michel roth sublimates typical dishes, and pays tribute to the most beautifulculinary mix of the united states. - michel, how do we startto prepare this menu from louisiana? - we will start with the pork jambalaya because there is a lot of preparation. - the jambalaya is a dish inspired by the spanish paella, so it is a creole paella with cajun and african influences. we are going to travel tonight! - yes a lot! as mixed as its population, the cuisine of louisiana reflects its rich and turbulent history.
the french explorers discover the mississippi valley in the late seventeenth century, and name it louisiana in honor of louis xiv. it is then a vast territory stretching across the mississippi river basin, from the rockies to the gulf of mexico. with its long river and its opening on the seas, that territory is coveted: from french colony, it becomes partly spanish and british. then, amputated from the eastern shore of the river, it becomes french again before being sold in 1803 by bonaparte to the young union.
in the space of two centuries, various populations settle - by will or by force - with their culture, their traditions, their products. the french but also the cajun and acadian,these french canadian chased by the english crown, bring their recipes. african slaves and antillean creoles come with new ingredients. the culinary specialties of the region are the result of this mix, like the famous jambalaya - whose origin is lost in its numerous influences - and whose name alone makes you travel. - michel we are preparing the jambalaya. - we will sprinkle with cinnamon, paprika and chili.caution with the chili because it is strong. and we will roll it inside. i let you do it?
- yes. meanwhile, you put the butter. i start with the cinnamon. - exactly.- how do you find it? - it is good. we will turn it later.i will put the chopped onions... ...and my melted butter. it will smell very good in this kitchen! - yes it is beautiful, this mix. - paprika and cinnamon. let’s be careful with the chili. it’s well spread. do the same on the other side and it will be perfect.
i’ve put chopped garlic in my pan, and i let it melt. - do i bring you the meat in the plate? - yes. i will add the sweet potatoes that you have cut. i’m making you working! - so onions and garlic melt in butter and the sweet potatoes. - i will brown your pork tenderloin. - michel, we will add the okras after the sweet potatoes?the okras are african vegetables i think. - yes. they look like gherkins, or small zucchinis. they have no particular flavor, so we have to cook it with garlic,spices or tomatoes, but the texture is original. - in france we have less this sticky texture.
- yes, we don’t really have vegetables with this texture, that’s why it is interesting to cook them. do you see the small strings?- yes. - they are giving the sticky texture. - it is like lightly melted cheese.- exactly! - the grain rice. - we continue with the pork tenderloin. we have to sear the meatbut not too much neither. it has to cook. - it is beautiful. - for the color, we have to roast the spices. - oh yes, it becomes really beautiful!
- now we can pour the broth. it is a poultry broth,but i’ve already add tomatoes, because they use a lot of tomatoes. then we mix, and we taste! - do we let it like this? you decide.- maybe some more salt? do you agree? - if i didn’t say it, i was thinking about it.- so i heard you thinking! - voilã , perfect. we leave the lid and go back to our pork tenderloin. - is it good cook? a little bit pink? - yes it is. we leave it to settle.
honestly, i don’t know what you think but i cannot wait, i want to taste! what about you? - yes i also want to! - oh the cooking! - i like when it is pink. - it is tender, right? it comes right after. - cinnamon, paprika... - we are done with this recipe, we will continue with the starter.let’s do the crab and crayfishes soup! - we break them, to remove all the juice.
what is important is the soup, not the flesh. that’s why we took small crabs. - the holy trinity!- the holy trinity! onions, green peppers, celery. it is primordial. - it smells so good! - we leave it a small minute and we will flame it. - it is beautiful! yes, remove the spatula. - voilã . and we deglaze with dry white wine. we put a lot and reduce to remove the acidity and the alcohol. - oh, i received alcohol in the eyes. - now, we add our broth of crayfishes.
in this starter, there will also be crayfishesthat will be served in the plate. so, this morning, i’ve taken living crayfishes, i’ve removed the gut and i’ve poured them in the broth,made with poultry broth and tomatoes. i’ve waited 2 min and i have shelled the crayfishes. i’ve kept the heads for the presentation i will use all of this tonight. it is the broth that i am pouring in the soup,to have this link between the crayfishes and the crab. we put the lid.
it is important because it starts to boil.we leave it during about 30 min... and we continue with the roux. - so, a good portion of butter. - yes. normally, a roux is made with melted butter and flour. the quantities are the same. - and you will add it directly to the soup, like this? - we start sieving the soup, and then we will pour it more and more.- alright. - we remove this. i come back to my well mixed roux,
and now we pour the soup on it. progressively. - like this?- a little bit more. i think that we are good.we add some tabasco. - does it suit to you? - yes, we feel it. we leave the soup like this and i do the green peppers julienne.- wonderful. michel, let me introduce our guests for this dinner inspired from the cuisine of louisiana. sarah savoy, interpreter of cajun music and also cook. judyth bluysen, an american whofelt in love with the louisiana cuisine.
and gilles-antoine langlois, historian and town plannerwho worked a lot in louisiana and he is passionate by the cuisine. - very good. - i have to go to the kitchen, if think it is ready.- let’s go! - i prepared you a crab soupwith crayfishes and green peppers. we made a roux... ...and we used the bouquet garni, the… - the holy trinity. - oh, you know the holy trinity! - yes, peppers, celery and onions. right?
- it depends were you are. in new orleans it is celery.but where i come from we use onion, pepper and garlic. - it smells good! - the roux makes the soup smooth. - like a veloutã©. it is delicious. - and about the roux, is it present in the cajun cuisine? - it was always used yes. we even have anecdotes like "you may be cajun if you always start with a roux" - yes it is the beginning of every cajun recipe.first you make a roux. - gilles-antoine, when did the roux appear? - the creoles already used it beforethe arrival of the acadians in louisiana,
that is to say about 1764-65. - it is interesting to make the difference between the creoles and the cajuns. in louisiana, creoles can befrench, spanish or anyone. it is not about the skin color orif you come from the creole islands. they just were people who cameto colonize new orleans for france. - the creole has no ancestrial roots in louisiana, but he is born in louisiana. they are very different from the cajunsbecause they were living in the country. they ate raccoons. - where i come from we don’t eat raccoons.sometimes we’ve eaten squirrels.
and it is very tasty. - what taste does it have? - it tastes like rabbit. - michel, i think that we cancontinue with the main course. - there is more soup. - i will take some in the kitchen later. - this is a pork jambalaya with spices. - it smells very good! - this a pork tenderloin with spices.
we find the famous okra, i’ve added itto pay tribute to you. good appetite. - thank you. - if you want, you can add sauce. we have put tabasco. - essential. - it is very tasty michel.- really good. and your okras are not sticky,they are very very good! - yes, this vegetable has a lot of gelatin. - we are not used to it,that is what we said with michel while cooking.
gilles-antoine, can you tell ushow the okra came to louisiana? - it was about feeding the black slaves. they were coveted merchandise and were sold at saint-domingue in louisiana andthey were fed with products they were used to eat. and among these products, the okra. because the okra is gelatinous and thickens. - and the okra is this small vegetable that comes from africa. - europeans then realized that the treatmentalso worked on them, and that it was good. - the sausage is an important elementin the jambalaya today. does it come from the germans?
- actually they came from lorraine (france) and sarre (germany). - i am from lorraine! - that’s funny. - like the slaves brought the okra, these persons broughtthe pork at the beginning of the french colonization and pork will replace what was usedin the north, that is to say the bear. - bear is fatty. so it was used it for its fat. - michel, for the next louisiana menu we cook bear.- squirrel? - raccoon. it must not be very digestible. - as often when one settles,one uses what one finds.
and then one tries to import food. the turkey came from the united states.- right. - the dessert is a pecan pie.caroline, i let you cut, you are used to it. - yes. - a knife, the pie and i just decorate here. i make a maple leaf with cocoa powder. pecan pie with, of course,maple syrup and vanilla cream. i’ve put the sweet pastry in a cake mould. then i’ve harmoniously placed the pecans. i've mixed eggs, sugar, vanilla...
...maple syrup and a little bit of flour. i poured it on the pie and have put it in the ovenduring 20 min at 180â°c. now it is cut and i've add some maple syrupto make it glitter, and whipped cream. - it's funny, i use almost the same recipe but mine doesn’t look that beautiful. i threw them into the pastry. - yes but it may also be very good. i am happy that she tells me that the recipe is almost the same, that means…- that you are on the right way. - yes. in the united states, when you do a pecan pie,you normally use corn syrup. - with some molasses.
- the molasses and the vanilla come from haiti. this emigration happened at the end of the eighteenth century, when the slaves of saint-domingue did revolt. the ones who were obliged to followtheir masters came to louisiana. the masters will then create newspapers, theaters but the slaves will create a black population. this population is at the originof the free black population. certain of their members have becomemusic composers, like basile barã¨s, or writers like edmond dã©dã©who was a ghostwriter of alexandre dumas, dumas being himself son of a caribbean mulatto,
the first general of the french republic, who is black. it is interesting to see that new migrantsbrought new cultures and habits. it was the same after katrina; the mexicans cameto clean the city and some of them stayed and brought different habbits.... - sarah, maybe it is time for you… - to take my guitar?- to take your guitar yes. - actually i wanted to play a cajun song tonight, but you have mixed so many influencesin your dishes, that i will play something else.
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